Tasty Tokyo Tour--January 12

We are back after a week's vacation in Cambodia. Monday here is "coming of age day" when there are ceremonies for all the people turning 20 years old. It is also one of those Japanese holidays that my kids do not have off from school so present an opportunity for cycling. I bailed on a more ambitious ride when the missus suggested an urban tour. Given I am always encouraging them to cycle, the basic rule is to say yes if the rest of the family wants to go on a ride.

We ended up rambling through Yoyogi, Shinjuku, Yotsuya and down along the imperial palace moat. The morning was sunny and clear like so many winter days lately. We decided to continue on through Ginza and Tsukiji down to Tsukishima. We wandered along the canals and toyed with looking for the microbrewery down there but as the clouds came in it got bitterly cold, so instead we doubled back to Tsukiji. Dining in Tokyo is really a delight; the general standard is so incredibly high. We ducked into a place where you get three mini-don as a set: say salmon roe, grilled eel and mackerel. We also picked up some crab and salmon roe so the kids can enjoy some seafood this evening.

We cruised back next to the Parliament building (including the hordes of police protecting the LDP headquarters from something, disgruntled voters I suppose?) and along Aoyama dori to Jingumae. The finals of the national high school soccer tournament were on at National Stadium so we passed by the crowds and dropped by the Narushima Friends shop. http://www.nalsimafrend.jp/cgi-bin/cms/index.cgi　Have to put in a plug for them as it is a really friendly shop with reasonable prices. We actually passed one of the mechanics cycling the other direction in Shinjuku at 10:30 or so. He had repaired my bike prior to the Izumo century last fall. When we showed up at the shop three hours later he was like "didn't we pass each other over in Shinjuku this morning?" Kind of funny in a city of 30 million people.

Sneaking back past Harajuku station to come home there was some young, flashy model being photographed in the middle of the street and blocking traffic. You never know what you will come across.

Dec. 30--Tamagawa Ramble

Today I did a loop with Eugene and his son Alex. The standard loop is to roughly follow the Tamajyosui (a long canal that branches off from the Tama river and goes in to Shinjuku) and ramble about. Alex is studying architecture in college so we cruised through some neighborhoods near Inokashira Park and then went to the circular kindergarten near Tachikawa. It has a grassy center and a ring of classrooms, all with large glass doors that can be opened in good weather. Each room then has a ladder to the roof that is one huge circular wooden deck for playing on. In the back corner there is also an area for the ducks and goat and benches and a chalkboard for outdoor class. Makes you wish you could be a student there. Even Monocle thinks it is cool: http://www.monocle.com/sections/design/Web-Articles/Fuji-Kindergarten/

Eventually we headed to the brewery restaurant near Haiijima and the river. It is an old sake brewery with gorgeous buildings and a beautiful courtyard. They also brew (delicious) beer these days and the restaurant has great food. A gem of a place that is thronged with cyclists on the weekend who come up from the cycling course along the river. http://www.tamajiman.com/english/
Back along the river was uneventful. Fewer ballgames and picnickers this time of year so easier to sail along. Then we returned following the Odakyu line. We cut through the really nice green path between Setagayadaita and Shimokitazawa. There was a new building advertising large apartments.... Might have to check it out.

Saturday Yoyogi Ramble

This year I did a fair amount of longer road rides. Always feels good to get in shape and get out to the countryside. There is nothing quite like an urban ramble with my 5-year old son, however. We have a "trailgator" attachment that hooks his bike to the back of my shopping bike, and he definitely has the bug. Last weekend we rode to Shibuya to do some Christmas shopping. We stopped first at the park in Shoto
View Larger Map It has a pond with a small island and we saw a sleek rat gathering food and swimming out to the island. There were actually two rats busily scurrying about the island and in and out of a miniature shrine. One made a couple of swims to shore to collect food and was impressively fast. Guess you never know what you will come across.

Today we tried to visit the sword museum in Yoyogi. You can actually follow a small alley just down from our house, past the Shibuya sports center, and across Yamate-Dori to get to it. Unfortunately, they are repairing the tiled pavement out front until Jan. 5th, but all the workmen liked the bike. So we continued on past Yoyogi-station to Takashimaya. From there, you can take a small street that runs all around the edge of Shinjuku Gyoen to go down to the National Stadium area. There we had cheeseburgers at One's Diner (www.bento.com/rev/1621.html). From there it is a quick jaunt to the Shibuya Central Library, which is the one with English books. After checking some out, we even ran into a cycling friend randomly on the street in Harajuku. I think she was surprised to see our contraption emerging from a side street.

It is pretty impressive what is reachable by bike in Tokyo. I think we may have to upgrade to a real tandem soon.

Economic Theory

There was a funny article in the International Herald Tribune today.   It was about how professional economists had missed the factors leading to the current economic crisis and are now engaged in handwringing about their relevance to the real world.  Oops.  It leads me to a consideration of naivete.  One popular theory in the Bush administration has been that the general public lacks an appreciation for the danger of Islamic extremists and thus the necessity for hard men to deal with them with extreme violence.  That is a theory I do not subscribe to.

I believe the naivete of many in the U.S. relates to a lack of recognition for how special, fragile and positive, a stable society with respect for the rule of law is.  Many of the US proponents of a "free market" and limited government seem to take for granted a baseline societal understanding on values and the limits of trading behavior that is by no means universally accepted elsewhere.  Is is legitimate to traffic in slaves, particularly in women and children?  Is it legitimate to push workers until they are injured or die and then cast them aside?  These are practical, rather than rhetorical questions, but Americans seem to assume a baseline where trafficking in humans or organs is not permitted.  That is only a construct of law and values, however, and if a US administration declares that it does not believe in universal human rights and that in the name of expediency it will detain and torture individuals without judicial review, then that is profoundly destructive.

What has confused economists and called into question their relevance, is the collapse of trust that has led to a seizure of the international credit markets.  But such trust underpins a complex, modern trading market.  And such trust depends on market and societal norms that must be respected by all.  New York law, which is the basis for my career and employment, assumes a covenant of "good faith and fair dealing" in all contractual relationships.  This is a far different ideal than that of a pure "buyer beware" construct.  It provides that market participants will not seek to defraud others.   Looking at the behavior of sub-prime lenders and of "mainstream" financial groups such as Citigroup, it seems they may fall far short of such a standard in practice.  Despite his fall from grace for his personal failings, Eliot Spitzer's attempts to give teeth to anti-fraud provisions of NY law seem well justified.

Tokyo--Wild Animals

It is Christmas Eve in Tokyo.  For Japanese people, that seems to be the rough equivalent of prom night.  One of those things that it is hard to explain.  In my case, however, I would just like to have some Christmas decorations.  Unfortunately, the tanuki (raccoon dogs?) seem to have eaten through the wiring of the Christmas lights on our back patio.  Yes, there are tanuki in Yoyogi Uehara.  See the picture if you doubt it!

December 23rd--Hakone Ride

Even in late December temperatures had been very high.  On the 22nd, I rode to work in Tokyo sweating in roughly 70 degree temperatures.  Given the warm spell, I sent a ride message to the IAC list about riding in Hakone on the public holiday on the 23rd (weather forecast was for clear skies, if a little colder).  By the time I was cycling home from work in freezing rain about 35 degrees cooler, I was having second thoughts.

Even with no takers, however, I set off in the morning to catch the 8:16 Odakyu express as advertised.  My shoes were not completely dry from the night before and I dashed on mid-train without time to walk to the front car, but I made it.  At the intermediate stops, the bitterly cold air had me ready to walk across the platform and return home....

From Shin-Matsuda on the Odakyu line, however, I followed the planned course.  First a scenic detour along the river towards Fuji-san.  As I set out, the very tip of the peak (peek?) loomed above the river through a small gap in the ominous clouds, not to be seen again.  Then the climb proper towards Ashigara-toge (足柄峠).  I gradually got warm and sweaty and finally took off the fleece skullcap at the turn to the old forest road (足柄古道入り口).  Up to the tunnel/pass at 800 meters altitude was uneventful, just one resplendent pheasant for wildlife.  There was also thankfully no ice or snow, although at the ridge the evergreens on the peaks were encrusted with ice where the clouds had passed over them in the night.

Descending from the peak my fleece vest and skullcap saw me through joining the main 138 route, turning onto route 75 and then up the final steep stretch to the pola art museum (www.polamuseum.or.jp/english/index.php).  At the museum, the guards showed me to a prime parking space, I ate the fancy French course lunch (not especially recommended) and was able to do some Christmas shopping at the gift shop.  The enfrosted evergreens upon the peak above were beautiful.

After lunch, the ride involved bombing through Gora down to the main road (138 again?), jogging left, and then taking the forest road around the ridge and back to Odawara.  After passing some mtn. bikers, I turned right and eventually emerged into fruit orchards above Odawara with views down all of Tokyo bay in the warm sunshine.  Just fabulous.  A quick descent and turn onto Route 74 brought me to the west exit of Odawara station.  A great deal of fantastic scenery and changes in temperature for little more than 50km of riding.

On the train home I met one of Japan's leading young triathletes.  A delightful day all around.

2008 Sado Long Ride

2008 marked the third year I did the Sado Long Ride. For those not in the know, the ride is in late May and follows the circumference of Sado Island, Niigata, Japan. 210 km in all. Sado is a windswept island in the Sea of Japan. Generally, May means unpredictable and blustery weather. The initial editions had featured significant rain and wind. Year three brought warm sunshine and low winds the entire day. Just unbelievable. Four of us had driven up from Tokyo, Hiro (an IAC member), my friend Larry from Singapore ( a former Tokyo resident who had done the 2007 ride), and Larry's friend Nick from Singapore (not Leeson by the way).

Given the favorable weather, the ride was great. Having experienced it previously, I was also better able to deal with the length and finish up strong. The organization was very good; marked improvements had been made on the prior year. Even our hotel had refurbished the restaurant with spectacular views down the coastline. The weather may never be as nice again, but all in all it is a highly recommended event.